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And this was the last I said about that, I'm getting really tired discussing this, lol. Nigams can read here what people think. He should use his brain and make a wise decision on how to document the case. But if you want to prove that you've cured hairloss with some photo's, I'd make damn sure they were as convincing as possible.Comment
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That 1100D is basically the Rebel T4i. Its more than capable if used properly.
A few days ago I took some photographs (500 actually, lol) of shoes for an online store. I used a Canon T3i, one generation older than Nigams 1100D. Here's a colour corrected image (grey background was knocked out in order to isolate the image to the shoe)
Once the image has loaded, click on it as it will resize to fit to screen. View it in its entirety. It's been compressed from RAW to JPEG twice, once exported from Lightroom to JPEG at 100% JPEG compression and then again in Photoshop via 'Save For Web' at 60%. Don't worry, there isn't much loss. Only did this to prove a point. Image resolution is 18megapixels.
Settings used for photo are:
Lens used: Canon 24-105mm f/4L
Focal Length: 70mm
ISO 200
1/250th Shutter Speed
Aperture: F/13
Studio Setup: http://i43.tinypic.com/b93f5.jpg
^in this photo my Canon 50D is mounted, but at f/13 a lot of dust was noticeable from my sensor, thus I had to use a Canon Rebel T3i (backup camera).
IMPORTANT:
If anyone read my photography guide, I pointed out that the higher the f stop value (f/13 for example is much higher than f/2.8) the more of the subject is in focus. But notice that in the image the front of the show is clearly in focus but as you look further back at the shoe, the more blurry it gets. This is called 'bokeh'. I could have used a higher aperture, for example f/16 or f/22 but image sharpness actually degrades. So basically, there will always be some degree of the subject going out of focus beyond the focus point (both before and after).
If you guys look at Thane's photographs, they QUICKLY blur out further down his head with a view from above. Therefor, a higher f-stop is required but at the same time a LOT more light is needed. Essentially, with every full stop you need twice as much light. Full f-stop increments are as follows:
f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22
With each increment, in order to achieve the same exposure level, (a bright enough photograph) either the shutter speed or ISO speed needs to be compensated by 2X the amount.
Thus a photograph taken at:
f/4
ISO 200
1/160th shutter speed
is the same as
f/5.6
ISO 400
1/160th shutter speed
and also the same as
f/4
ISO 200
1/80th
Another run down:
f-stop controls how much light passes through the lens
ISO controls how sensitive the sensor is to light
shutter speed controls how LONG light passes through the lensComment
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Arashi,hellouser,greatjob,one...
I will try,not to disappoint you all with photographs...
will call professional photographer for the cases to be documented .
This sunday i am calling the patient mr joshi..and his pics will be taken by professional photographer.
But before i post them..i want to first mail it to arashi...
if he is fine with it..i will post on the forum..if not..we will try and take the pics again...
I have taken a printout of hellouser guide..and will hand that over to the photographer.
I have few more patients of nw7..will mail arashi today...once the cases are selected..than i will take better pics of these cases too.
Arashi,do you remeber one nw7 case of an indian from malaysia...whose majority of donor was removed as apart of doubling procedure...he has better donor than before after 5 months of first session...
He was in mumbai this week,i took his pics..will mail you.
Also ask Tom and Dr Mwamba,to post tom's pics..which were taken 3/4 days before..wherein, tom mailed me that his donor looks as dense as before,with no white dot mark...and his recipient is looking good too....
Just recieved a mail from dr mwamba..
we should be able to finalize our contract at san fransisco,this october.
Recieved a call from president of ISHRS dr carlos puig, yesterday,he has put me in contact with the chairman of fue research committe..dr mohibe..regarding my doubling and scarless fue work.
Dr carlos invited me to present my paper at florida,april 2014 in live surgery workshop conference of ishrs.
Hope to meet the big boss,the stalwart, spencer too at the san fransiso,ishrs meeting.
Arashi,you all can select few cases for patch test of doubling, at mwamba's clinic at brussels,
specially yourself...or anyone with great documentation skills.
I will arrange with dr mwamba the same.
That 1100D is basically the Rebel T4i. Its more than capable if used properly.
A few days ago I took some photographs (500 actually, lol) of shoes for an online store. I used a Canon T3i, one generation older than Nigams 1100D. Here's a colour corrected image (grey background was knocked out in order to isolate the image to the shoe)
Once the image has loaded, click on it as it will resize to fit to screen. View it in its entirety. It's been compressed from RAW to JPEG twice, once exported from Lightroom to JPEG at 100% JPEG compression and then again in Photoshop via 'Save For Web' at 60%. Don't worry, there isn't much loss. Only did this to prove a point. Image resolution is 18megapixels.
Settings used for photo are:
Lens used: Canon 24-105mm f/4L
Focal Length: 70mm
ISO 200
1/250th Shutter Speed
Aperture: F/13
Studio Setup: http://i43.tinypic.com/b93f5.jpg
^in this photo my Canon 50D is mounted, but at f/13 a lot of dust was noticeable from my sensor, thus I had to use a Canon Rebel T3i (backup camera).
IMPORTANT:
If anyone read my photography guide, I pointed out that the higher the f stop value (f/13 for example is much higher than f/2.8) the more of the subject is in focus. But notice that in the image the front of the show is clearly in focus but as you look further back at the shoe, the more blurry it gets. This is called 'bokeh'. I could have used a higher aperture, for example f/16 or f/22 but image sharpness actually degrades. So basically, there will always be some degree of the subject going out of focus beyond the focus point (both before and after).
If you guys look at Thane's photographs, they QUICKLY blur out further down his head with a view from above. Therefor, a higher f-stop is required but at the same time a LOT more light is needed. Essentially, with every full stop you need twice as much light. Full f-stop increments are as follows:
f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22
With each increment, in order to achieve the same exposure level, (a bright enough photograph) either the shutter speed or ISO speed needs to be compensated by 2X the amount.
Thus a photograph taken at:
f/4
ISO 200
1/160th shutter speed
is the same as
f/5.6
ISO 400
1/160th shutter speed
and also the same as
f/4
ISO 200
1/80th
Another run down:
f-stop controls how much light passes through the lens
ISO controls how sensitive the sensor is to light
shutter speed controls how LONG light passes through the lensComment
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Dr Nigam thank you for the effort you put in curing us from this awfull desease...
you will become super famous ....
we cant wait for the next updates...Comment
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I'm by no means any authority here. But if you want people's opinions before you release the photo's, of course I'd be willing to help, I'm sure some others like gc83uk or jjjjrs wouldn't mind helping too and take a look at the photo's before you post them on the forums. Anyway, good luck !Comment
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You see, that is what these forums are for.
We asked for better test subjects and Dr. Nigam has obliged. We asked for the Holy Grail of proof by converting a NW7 to a NW 2 and Dr. Nigam is obliging. We asked for better photos and have a professional do it and Dr. Nigam is obliging. We asked for and explained the angles of the photos, the lighting of the photos, the setting on the camera itself and Dr. Nigam is obliging. He is willing to get preapproval of those subjects and photos before posting them.
I'm not making any assumptions, but we also asked for a way to get a full head of hair again!
Comment
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Here's what you should do:
Find a professional PRODUCT photographer, someone who takes photos of food, shoes, clothes, etc. These guys will know best how to set up, light and capture inanimate objects with DETAIL. We're not looking for 'the big picture' with some kind setting/background, we just need one object completely in focus as large as possible.
The photographer should ideally provide photos at:
400 ISO or lower
35-70mm Focal Length (or 28mm and 60mm according to lens suggested below)
1/100 second or faster shutter speed
f/11-f/16 aperture
Shoot at the nearest distance possible
Suggested Lens:
Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 IS
Canon EF-S 60mm f/2,8 USM Macro
Camera Body: any dSLR at 12mp or higher
Lighting: using umbrellas or softboxes (diffused light MUST be used)
The lenses I've suggested are mostly for the reason of their minimum focusing distance, which is 23cm for the 28mm and 20cm for the 60mm Macro lens. The macro lens would be great for very very close shots of the hair follicle up close, similar to the photo of the ant I showed earlier.
Give THIS list to the photographer and you shouldn't have problems.Comment
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Hellouser,
I will pass on these details to the photographer,thanks for ur inputs.
In the mean time,there is an potential exciting news for you all..
But, i did not want to say it myself..
you should ask TOM and dr mwamba...
dr mwamba took pics of TOM and did hair count of the donor...
This is what tom told me on skype..(i would like to confirmation of the same from dr mwamba)
0 white dots, near complete donor regen..
from where follicles were taken(that's what tom said,i am yet to see the pics)..
tom said donor looks same as in before pics.
tom;s donor around his scar was shaved again ..by dr mwamba..
and hair count was done with before and after pics..
which showed complete donor regen..
(again that's what tom said..i am yet to see the pics..).
the pics are with dr mwamba...
he is in china for a stemcell conference..would be back in 2 days...
Ask them to provide you with photos and their independent assessment.
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